Liming Wax Tutorial

Thank you for all the sweet comments on the dining room before and after post!  It has been so fun reading all of them (especially for my clients who are thrilled with your response).  So, I promised to show you how they limed the table.  Honestly, it's amazing that with a few steps you can take a table from this . . .

To this . . .

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It does take some elbow grease and attention to detail, but the results are so worth it.  Here's the process.

Step One

In a well ventilated area, sand the entire piece to remove any vanish or lacquer.  This couple wanted some of the original color to show through so they did not sand to bare wood.  I think this added to the patina of the finished piece.  

Also remember, the liming wax will look different depending on the tone of your wood.  So, you'll need to experiment with it a bit.  I actually tried the liming wax on our mantle after staining it and did not like the look, so we went back to a simple stain.  (Here's that post for reference). A simple way to do this is to sand and lime a section that is not visible (aka, underneath the table) before going to all the trouble to do the entire piece. 

Step Two
After sanding, wipe the entire piece down with the tack cloth to ensure there is no residue on the surface.  You want the wax to go on as evenly as possible.

Step Three
Using steel wool, apply the wax to the table in a circular motion.  This will ensure the wax clings to the grain of the wood creating the perfect effect.  The goal is to get this stuff down into the crevasses of the wood.

Remember you need to be liberal with it.


The more you apply the greater the contrast in the grain of the wood.  Notice the cute hubby applying the wax!

Here is a shot of the table after you've applied the liming wax.  You do need to let this sit overnight to dry thoroughly.

Step Four
The next day, apply a clear wax over the entire piece.  This will act as a seal and protect the piece.

Wax On . . . Wax Off . . . (sorry, I couldn't resist).

I should mention since this piece has not be coated with a varnish that the wood is still "open" so you may get water marks, etc. from daily use.  But, honestly, I think this adds to the character of a piece like this.

And the results . . . 

A big thanks to my clients for all these great pictures of the process.  I hope you'll find something to try this technique on in your own home! M.

Mantle Refinishing Tutorial

What a weekend!  I hope everyone had a nice relaxing break.   The weather here in Birmingham was so sunny and wonderful.  It was a bit chilly, but I'll take it any day over drizzle which we have had our share of lately.  

In between outings to enjoy the weather, I managed to put this post together.  

If you recall, a few weeks ago, I promised to show you how we refinished the mantle in our family room.  For a refresher, here is the project planning for the media area and here is the finished product.   I was so surprised by just how simple it was to refinish the mantle (wish the rest of the project had gone this smoothly!)

This mantle board was in my childhood home growing up.  Then about 13 years ago my parent's home was struck by lighting and burned for a total loss.  This was one of the only things salvaged from the architecture of the home.  Here's what it looked like after the fire . . . 

 In this picture, you can really see the smoke damage. 

With an electric sander using a medium grade sandpaper, we (notice the liberal use of the word "we" here) sanded off as much of the blackened, charred layer as we could remove.  You really need to use a electric sander for this step - it would have taken forever to do it by hand.  

 There was one spot which was particularly trying.  My Mom had a grouping of brass candlesticks with tapered candles on this end of the mantle.  All the wax melted into the wood and created a sticky gooey mess.  We went through several sanding pads on this one spot.

   We removed as much of the smoke layer as possible without sanding the mantle entirely smooth.  I really wanted it to still have a rustic feel.

Now for the staining . . .  OK, here's the deal.  For years, I have been disappointed with staining projects.  The finished product never seems to be dark enough.  I always followed the directions of selecting a stain the color I want the finished product.  I always apply the stain and then wipe over it with a dry cloth.  But, it never looks good to me.  

  So this time, I vowed not to make these mistakes.  I purchased the darkest stain Minwax makes called Ebony.  The guy in Home Depot even tried to talk me out of it.  He kept saying, "it's going to be black, really black, just so you know."  He had almost talked me out of it when I remembered all my previous projects.  So, I ignored him and went with it!

All I did was brush the stain on using a sponge brush.  I did two coats.  Also, I did not wipe it off after applying the coats.  In fact, it was so quick and easy that I forgot to take a picture of it!  

 I also chose not to finish it with a varnish and really like the rustic look of it. 

What I learned from this project?  You don't need to be afraid to try something new.  I read a lot of blog posts on staining techniques and not a single one said anything about wiping off the stain.  Anything would have been an improvement on the looks of this mantle, and you can fix almost anything you try like this when it comes to wood.  Just sand it off and try something else.  M. 

Drapery Detail Tutorial

Last week, I posted about a master bedroom installation I completed for this great couple who live in Mountain Brook.  I mentioned you can get a high end custom look with your drapery panels by adding trim detail to the lead edge of ready made panels.  It's very simple to do and will save you lots of cashola.

  Here's what I did . . . 

Find high quality 100% linen panels with 100% cotton lining.  These days they are really more available than you might think.  Think mainstream interior design stores (you know the ones you get a catalog from every other day or so?) and you'll find lots of options.

Also, these panels were actually a tabbed top style.  But, we chose not to use the tabs and installed them with rings and rod hardware.  This is another great way to get a really high end look.

 You will need to iron the inside edge of the panels where the tape will be applied.  The key to a great finished product is not the quality of your sewing machine, but rather, in the time you take to iron everything really well.  Since these panels were very wrinkled when I pulled them out of the bag, I ironed the lead edge front and back (no starch, just steam) before even thinking about pinning the tape to the panel. 

Turn under the cut edge of the trim and pin it to the back side of the top of the first panel where you want the tape to go.  This will prevent the tape from raveling.   In our case, we added the tape just to the inside or "lead" edge of each panel.  But you could add it to the top, bottom and/or sides depending on the look you would like to achieve.  

Carefully sew the tape to the panel on the back side.  You will not be able to see this seam on the front side since the tape will cover it. 

Flip the panel back over to the front side and begin pinning the tape in place.  I never apply the tape right to the edge of the panel.  To really get some contrast, I like to apply the tape 1/4" from the edge.  I make this measurement the entire time I am pinning the tape down.  

You want this edge to be exactly the same all the way down else you eye will be drawn to the difference and the tape will look very uneven.

Sew the tape onto the panel.  You will need to do this on both sides of the tape.  I like to make this seam as close to the edge of the tape as I can get it.

First the right side . . . 

Then the left . . . 

When you get to the bottom, you will need to tuck the tape under just as you did at the top.  For this seam, I tack it down by hand as to not see it in the finished product. 

I always use a monofilament thread when I am doing this type of top stitching.  Monofilament thread is clear like fishing line so you will not see it in the finished product. 

If you are using a graphic tape with a longer repeat (like what we used in this project), it is very important to make sure the pattern matches on the two panels that will be flanking the window.  If you don't do this, it will not look right in your finished product! 

That's it!  If you don't sew and are feeling a bit frustrated right about now, consider begging, pleading or even bribing a friend or relative who sews to do it for you.  I called several workrooms here in Birmingham and the price varied from $25 - $50 per panel to add this type of detail.   So, it will serve you well to do a little groveling! M.

DIY Project - Intaglios Tutorial & Giveaway

As mentioned yesterday, I created a grouping of framed intaglios for my entry way.  Each one cost me around $33.00 which is a fraction of the $395.00 retail price.


I promised to give you all the details, so here goes it!

Supplies

1. Intaglios - I found these on Ebay by searching for "plaster cameos."  The lot I purchased included 32 total.  The more the merrier when you are creating a grouping.  Here's a current lot for you to consider Plaster Cameos (btw, the price has gone up since I got mine, but it's still more affordable than the retail version).

2. Frames -  I used the 14x17 stock driftwood frames from Hobby Lobby.  I bought them during one of their weekly %50 off frame sales (check their flyer on line to see the next scheduled sale).  They didn't have enough so I requested a "raincheck," and they ordered the number I needed at the %50 off price. 

3. Mats - I was not able to find enough of the same color at Hobby Lobby, so I had to order these online at pictureframes.com.  The shipping was more than the mats themselves.  If you can find a local retailer for these, you will save even more money.  I selected the "ivory linen" color in an 8x10 image size for an 11x14 frame inset size.  Also, they smudge very easily, so I tried to keep my hands clean and dry when handling these.

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4. Replacement Glass -  found at Hobby Lobby.

5. Glue - I used a glue that was specifically made for gluing paper, ceramics and cement - found it at Hobby Lobby.  Also, this is not a fast drying glue which allows you to adjust the intaglio a bit on the card stock.  It does dry clear.  If you use a different glue, be sure to test it before using on the entire project!

6. Picture Hangers (Hobby Lobby) - I have used these for years for styling jobs.  They are tons easier to work with compared to the eye hooks and wire and since these are light weight frames, they are the perfect solution.

7. Off Sets - these are crucial to the project.  They're not a retail item at Hobby Lobby, so you will have to ask the personnel in the frame department to pull you enough for your project.  If you can't get your Hobby Lobby to sell them to you, here's an online source for the off sets.  Not sure, but I think mine were the 1/4" version.  

Without the off sets, you will not be able to secure the back - which ends up being thicker than the frame in the finished product.

8. Chocolate Card stock (letter size) - any stationary shop can sell you this.  Locally, I ran into Smith's Variety and picked up mine.  The picture is deceiving b/c the color is really much darker, almost black in person.  I think a dark gray would look great too.

9. Window Insulation Rubber - I know it sounds crazy, but after lots of trial and error, this is the least expensive way to give you the depth needed between the matt and the intaglios while maintaining a clean consistent edge.  I picked it up at Home Depot. Get the 5/16" thickness in white to ensure the intaglios have enough space in the frame.

10. Brown Trim paper - This is not essential but if you want the backs of the framed pieces to have a professional finish, you will need this.  I found it in the paint department at Home Depot. 

11. Double stick tape - this holds the brown finishing paper in place.

12. Foam Core Board - This will be the base for the intaglios.  You could use mounting board, but if you are doing a lot of them, it will get expensive fast.  Since you do not see this in the finished project, I decided I would use the more affordable option. 

Step One

Decide on the number of frames you will be using and place all the intaglios on the card stock to decide proper placement.  I tried to create symmetry in my layout.

Step Two

Glue the intaglios in place on the card stock.  I started by ensuring the backs of each intaglio were clean and dust free so they would adhere to the paper. 

Then, using a ruler, I determined the center of the paper and proper placement.

I then glued each intaglio in place.  As I mentioned, the glue is not fast drying so you are able to make small adjustments in placement.

Then I allowed these to dry overnight on a flat surface.  Do not rush this part!! 

Step Three

Cut Foam Core Board to 11x14 pieces for backing of intaglios.  

I started using a box cutter, and then decided it was taking to much time and energy so I got out the handy electric knife (not kidding).  It cut like butter!

Notice the foam core board does not have to be cut perfectly straight since you will not see it in the final product. 

Step Four

Prepare the frames - I hammered in the picture hanger (making sure to place it in the center on each frame) and the off sets (which I did not drill in the entire way).  

You want to do this step before placing the intaglios in the frame, since the hammering, etc could loosen your intaglios in the finished project. 

Step Five

Secure card stock (which now has the intaglios on it) to the foam core board.  To do this, you need to place the card stock on the foam core board and then place the mat on top of it and adjust the intaglios until they are centered with the mat (or you could use adhesive mounting board for this step and skip the glue).

Then lift up the mat and mark the proper placement of the card stock on the foam core board.  

Place glue on the top and bottom lines on the foam core board where the card stock will be placed and press the card stock into the glue. 

 Allow this step to sit overnight to dry.  (I never said this project was quick!  Just easy and affordable!)

Step Six

Create depth between the mat and foam core board using the window rubber seal.

Following the line of the card stock, cut and stick the self adhesive rubber seal onto the foam core board.  You just want to catch the edge of the chocolate paper, to ensure you don't see the seal once the piece is put together. 

Only the edge of the rubber seal can be seen (if you leaned in close and tilted the frame), so don't worry about how the pieces connect in the corners.

Step Seven

Put the layers together - Place the frame face down, add the glass, the mat, and then the foam core board (which has the intaglios and window seal glued to it at this point).

Step Eight

Tighten up the off sets on the back to secure the layers together.

Step Nine

Finish the back of the frame.  Place double stick tape on the outside edges of the frame.

 Roll the paper over the frame.

Using an exacto knife, cut away the excess paper.

Step Ten

Hang the grouping and enjoy.

Here are my tips for getting the perfect spacing when hanging a grouping, if you need a refresher - Proper Way to Hang a Grouping.

And that's it!  You get a huge wall of art for a fraction of the price.
I hope you will try this project.  It was so much easier than I expected.  The only thing you really need to remember is to be patient and wait for the glue to dry overnight and be meticulous in the spacing/gluing of the intaglios.  If you try this project, I would love to see your efforts!

And for those who are just not up for a DIY project, I did the work for you!
I am giving away this smaller framed set of two intaglios to one lucky reader.

This framed piece measures 11"x13" and includes two intaglios.

You could place it in a grouping with other artwork, on an easel in a bookshelf or over a side table next to a chair.  It's very versatile.

If you would like a chance to win this artwork . . .
Click Here to Enter The Giveaway

Good Luck and thank you again for following my blog! M.